Every January for the past fifteen years or so, I slip away to what has truly become my home away from home—the island of Nevis, and more specifically, Montpelier Plantation. Having grown up in the Caribbean, Nevis feels like a return to the islands of my childhood: unhurried, unspoiled, and still touched by the old-world charm that so many Caribbean destinations have lost.
Montpelier once was associated with Relais & Châteaux, and I met its owner, Muffin Hoffman, at one of our annual meetings. That first year I went, it was a particularly cold winter and I was itching to go somewhere warm, so I called to see if they might have space so I could thaw out for a few days. That initial visit was four or five days… then seven… then nine… then ten… and now I stay for fourteen. It is the only true vacation I take each year, and it has become my sanctuary.
The hotel is small—just 18 rooms—with no televisions and the blissful quiet that comes with it. (They do have Wi-Fi, so I’m still reachable when needed.) Montpelier sits in the lush foothills of Nevis Peak, 750 feet above sea level and surrounded by 60 acres of gardens from a historic sugar plantation. It’s serene and secluded, with views of the sea and mountains, and a private beach for long, lazy days by the water. Each morning I wake up and the only decision I really have to make is: beach or pool? That alone feels like luxury.
And then there’s Cosmo—the beloved yellow lab who has become part of the Montpelier experience. Every year, he greets guests with calm devotion, then waits patiently for you to return if you head out for the day. At breakfast, he strolls through the room with an expert’s eye for anyone who might drop a piece of bacon. Last year he had to wear a handmade scarf that read “Do Not Feed”—apparently he had been far too successful in his morning rounds!
The staff are truly like family—very much like Fearrington. From my second year onward, they welcomed me as though no time had passed, remembering even the smallest preferences. There are hugs, warmth, and an unspoken familiarity that can’t be manufactured. Many guests have been returning annually for twenty-plus years, and seeing them each January feels like slipping into a beloved ritual.
Getting there has its own charm: you fly into St. Kitts, where the Montpelier team meets you at the airport. They drive you to the far end of the island, where you board a small speedboat for an eight-minute ride across the channel to Oualie Beach on Nevis.
There, Champs—the island’s best driver and guide—meets you and takes you to the hotel, where you're welcomed with one of Kaddy’s famous rum punches (He does not share the recipe).
Days unfold slowly. You can spend them at the quiet private beach, and if you walk around the rocks, you’ll find a mile-long stretch of sand that is often completely empty—perfect for long beach walks. Occasionally you might spot a starfish drifting in the shallows. Or you can stay at the pool, and listen to Kaddy sing along to the music that is playing there and greet the guests who come for lunch.. he is certainly one of the most beloved people on the island.
Days unfold slowly. You can spend them at the quiet private beach, and if you walk around the rocks, you’ll find a mile-long stretch of sand that is often completely empty—perfect for long beach walks. Occasionally you might spot a starfish drifting in the shallows. Or you can stay at the pool, and listen to Kaddy sing along to the music that is playing there and greet the guests who come for lunch.. he is certainly one of the most beloved people on the island.
Evenings begin with cocktail hour in the Great Room, where guests gather before heading to their dinner destinations. While Nevis has plenty of wonderful restaurants, I tend to stay on property—the food is excellent, and the menu always includes dishes I look forward to trying.
It is a small island. The people are wonderful. And somewhere along the way, Nevis—and Montpelier—became my home away from home. I look forward to it each year with the same excitement I had the very first time—and I know that the moment I arrive, I will leave feeling restored.
